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Writer's pictureJennifer McGready

Discovering Blaye, France: Uncovering the Citadel and Main Street Magic

Citadel Wall

On a recent trip through the Bordeaux region, Jon and I found ourselves drawn to the quaint town of Blaye, curious to see if it might be the perfect place to spend the winter. Perched along the Gironde estuary about 40 minutes north of Bordeaux, Blaye is more than just a scenic stop—it’s a charming mix of history, local culture, and French small-town life that pulls you in the moment you arrive. From the majestic Citadel that watches over the town to the bustling main street brimming with character, Blaye offers a warm, welcoming vibe that’s hard to resist.

Bridge to King's Gate

The Citadel of Blaye: A Step Back in Time


Our adventure began at the Citadel of Blaye, an impressive 17th-century fortress designed by Vauban, Louis XIV's favorite military engineer. We arrived on a lovely, sunny morning, and the first thing that struck me was the sheer size of the fortress walls towering above. As we walked through the imposing King’s Gate, it felt like stepping back in time. The Citadel, now a UNESCO World Heritage site, is perched high on a bluff, offering sweeping views of the Gironde estuary and the rolling vineyards that stretch as far as the eye can see.


King's Gate

Inside, the maze of cobbled streets and stone buildings gives you a real sense of what life might have been like for the soldiers who once guarded this stronghold. We explored the charming courtyards and atmospheric underground passages, or casemates, which were once used to store ammunition and provide shelter during sieges. It was hard not to imagine the soldiers stationed here, peering out over the water, ready to defend Bordeaux from any incoming threats. Jon and I spent a good hour or so wandering the ramparts, stopping often just to soak in the incredible views. There’s something surreal about standing on centuries-old stonework, with the vast, shimmering estuary below, and thinking about the history that unfolded here. We couldn’t help but imagine what it would be like to stroll these same paths every day if we made Blaye our winter home.


Ice Cream in the Citadel


As we continued exploring, we stumbled upon a quaint little ice cream shop nestled within the Citadel’s ancient walls. It felt like a hidden gem, and we couldn’t resist stopping for a treat. I chose a scoop of lavender honey—an intriguing flavor that combined subtle floral notes with the sweetness of honey. Jon went for a classic vanilla, and we sat at a bistro table, enjoying our ice cream while overlooking the picturesque scenery. There’s something about savoring a cone in such a historic setting that makes the experience even more special. We chatted about the possibility of returning to Blaye for the winter and imagined ourselves making this little ice cream shop a regular stop on our daily walks.


Cruising Down Rue Saint-Romain: Blaye’s Heart and Soul


After leaving the Citadel, we hopped into the car and drove down Rue Saint-Romain, Blaye’s lively main street, just a stone's throw from the fortress. The moment we turned onto the street, we were swept up in its charm. It felt like the heartbeat of the town, pulsing with life and welcoming us with open arms. Lined with a mix of shops, cafes, and restaurants, each spot seemed to tell its own story, from the inviting Chinese Panda restaurant to the taco and kebab joint that made our mouths water.


What I love most about Rue Saint-Romain is how it perfectly balances the old with the new. The buildings, with their classic French facades and colorful shutters, whisper tales of centuries past, while the vibrant energy of modern life buzzes all around. We saw families enjoying the weekend together, couples sharing laughter over lunch at cozy bistros, and local artisans showcasing their crafts. It all felt so genuine, as if we had stumbled upon a slice of everyday life in Blaye. I was especially drawn to La Cave, a charming wine shop that beckoned us to explore the region's rich viticultural heritage. With each passing moment, I could feel the magic of Blaye wrapping around us, making me eager to return and soak it all in again.


Hidden Treasures of Blaye


But there’s more to Blaye than just its Citadel and main street. After exploring Rue Saint-Romain, we drove down to the marina, a peaceful spot where the estuary meets the town. The view of the Citadel from below is quite stunning, and we spent some time watching the boats bobbing gently in the water. If you’re lucky, you might catch sight of the ferry that runs between Blaye and the Médoc region, offering yet another way to explore the area.


For wine lovers, Blaye is surrounded by vineyards that produce some excellent, yet often overlooked, Bordeaux wines. We drove past many local châteaux and look forward to returning for tastings. I can already picture savoring a crisp, floral white while learning about the region’s rich wine heritage and enjoying the stunning vineyard views—it's moments like these that make me fall in love with travel all over again.


A Day to Remember in Blaye


As we drove away, we felt a surge of excitement at the prospect of returning to Blaye and settling in for a cozy winter in this charming town. Blaye may be small, but it's brimming with character and charm, from its historic citadel to its picturesque streets. The warm, welcoming atmosphere and friendly locals made us feel right at home, and I can’t wait to return and uncover even more of its hidden treasures. Whether it's exploring local markets or simply soaking in the serene river views, I know this place has so much more to offer.



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